Motherland where my heart belongs



Motherland where my heart belongs
The cocks’ crows wake this village! As the people turn in their beds trying to cover their heads and coil for more minutes, the crows continue until they get out of their sleeping mats. They yawn, stretch as their eyes adjust and notice the light from the skies signaling daylight. The atmosphere is filled with melodies from the birds. Up they arise and get hold of their hoes and other garden tools and rush off to the fields. Much of the field work is completed by the time the sun comes up and some people start their long trek back home as others work on until the sun is above their heads. Some roots like cassava, yams; vegetables and firewood are always brought back home. The woman immediately starts the process of making food for the family as the man bathes and goes to sit under that mango/ tamarind tree with a big bowl of porridge as he awaits lunch. The children come around him and start playing. He plays the baby sitter role as mama works on lunch

In the urban setting, the hustle and bustle happens like in any other urban area. Children are being prepared for school; the adults rush through to get to work early. Many miss out on the beautiful big golden ball that rises from its sleep before it sweeps over the town with its shining armour. Sometimes its kind to us and the heat is moderate. There are days when it glares at us and we soak in our own sweat! We love it; we get to see it every single day of our lives. It helps us dry our clothes, foods before we store them

This land is bestowed with fruits all year round! The people don’t lack; from Oywelo, to ocayo, to olelem, pwomo (the African star fruit), passion fruits, sour sop, okwee munu (apple cucumber), sugar apples, mangoes, guava, pawpaw, berries of all kinds, the list is endless. Children roam the thickets in search for these mouth watering fruits in their freshest states as they hunt for birds that they will later bring back home and roast. Such a delicacy as one crashes the bird with its bones and lick each finger one at a time. When it’s time to harvest sweet potatoes, the children are the most excited as they wait for the evening so they can bake the potatoes from the garden. Chunks of solid mounds are built to create a dome with an opening where the potatoes are put in. The mound is pre-heated red-hot before the sizeable potatoes are pushed in and the dome crashed over the potatoes and left over night. The children return home eager for the next morning when they go to pick the well baked potatoes, it is so tasty that even a passerby’s mouth waters from the aroma. Around this period the children don’t mind about the morning meals as they are kept full from the potatoes, they keep drinking water all day long. They call this process goyo abuu

When the period of ocayo reaches, it is squashed together with boiled sweet potatoes and the children dig in with all five fingers as they enjoy the delicacy. You definitely should visit a village this December or January and munch away!
The foods of this land are majorly pasted, and there is always Shea-nut butter to add in certain foods for better tastes. We have vegetables (lalaa, malakwang, boo, akeyo, oyado…), legumes (dek ngor, lugwiri, ladunga), when you consume ladunga, remember to drink lots of water or cry at poo time…, game meat laced in olel; you should actually try the edible rat! It’s usually hunted same as guinea fowls, warthogs, wild rabbits, antelopes, buffalos. Now don’t leave your mouth agape! We have foods from the other lands too; you won’t die of hunger if you can’t stomach this delicacy which is most unlikely. Say you need Indian meals, Ethiopian meals, English foods, you definitely will find them in hotels around Gulu town. However, if you really want to go local and have no home to provide you this yummies, there are plenty of local restaurants all over the land!

The children of this land are children and enjoy their childhood! They are always at their mother’s side to clean out (eat) last night’s remain of food from the saucepan, licking away the mingling stick that has some olel (pasted soup) or kwon(bread) on it before it is washed. Odeyo is a must-have for children and it tastes just like corn flakes; don’t question this unless you have tasted it! When it starts raining, the children dance away and bathe in the rain; it is the much-needed fun the children have been waiting for since the clouds started gathering! They swim in any pond in sight, slide on any valley (small slightly steep footpath) after the rain, they dance at every music that sounds, play football from locally made balls from pieces of clothes and plastic bags, one of the most memorable games is when mimicking a family with a father, mother , and children in place there is so much outdoor game that no child is left out or gets bored. Do not pity them when you see them in those tatters for they are better than a modern child in a million ways! They know true love, they know family bond, they know healthy foods and they surely know how to have fun, a lot of children rich with innovations and a very experimental lot! They learn so much as they are part of the adult life and their childhood is always respected

Market day is approaching, Yes market day!
The village starts talking about the market day weeks before the day! As the women trek the long distance to the well talking about their challenges in the house/ homes, advising one another on how to hold on to marriage, talking about boys and men. They can’t hide their excitement for the market day…           
The morning of the market day, everybody arises early, trying to wrap up the chores of the day. They carry the millet, bananas, clothes, local brew straws, chicken, goats and head out to the market. The women ensure that there is enough food for the children remaining home.

The market is alive with people milling all over, music booming in one corner, the traditional dancers on one end, people buying and yelling and catching up on village gossip. The men admiring the women and drawing pictures of how they will end up with the women later in the night in that nightclub being quickly put up with some bamboo rids, some will find a wife on this day…as the afternoon draws in, some men have started drinking the local brew. A group of about 6 men each are seated round massive pots sharing a straw as they drink and chatter away, their laughter boom through the market. The women adding hot water to the brew wiggle their waists around as they attend to the pots. In this particular circle, we can see the chemistry of this beautiful dark skin, long-legged woman, as her hips sway, the man who will definitely end up with her swallows hard sending the circle into another roar of laughter as the other men tease him…By evening the women are in circles dancing away and the men move closer to watch. The younger women dance in quite seductive ways, their smiles are infectious; some men join the women dancing. The drummer is definitely enjoying the act…as darkness swallows the market place, many of the elderly women have returned home with more gossip. They feel refreshed! The night disco is already on and when you glance at the legs of the dancers, you get the point. The dust has risen to their shins but they carry on until very early in the morning…


Known for so long for its over 2 decade’s war, Gulu is healing. If no one told you what this place was like about 20 years ago? You would never guess. This town has crawled from the shadows and it is being noticed. The war hit it so hard. Many people, in fact, the biggest number of internally displaced persons moved to towns. A tiny house that should have housed about 3 people housed about 10 people in the town set up.  Many people have returned home where a homestead consist s of many huts; for the family heads, the guest wing, that for the boys, the girls, grannies, aunts who have returned home and the kitchen. Granaries are a must-have in every home! At the centre of homes always sit big bonfires where much of the education takes place every evening.

The streets of Gulu town are none like you used to know, they are smoother. If you last came here about 3 years ago, you would get lost in this town. Structures have sprouted in all corners. Business is booming! When you enter the “main” market, you will feel the excitement of the vendors, they are always singing to a tune playing on a cassette or dancing to one of those Acoli songs (lakubukubu). It is a beauty to behold watching such jovial people!

People who love nightlife don’t get disappointed, there are pubs, dance places scattered all over the place from low to high end! The fun is always epic! Those who stay home even just a few kilometers from town chatter away around bonfires

Motherland! Behold your beauty! The streams! The borassus palms are beautifully aligned and give a beauty many are yet to see from this land! The webbed leaves stand tall on uniquely shaped stems showing off their orange fruits that the community enjoys annually and use it as teeth whiteners. The fibres get off all the dirt from all corners of the teeth leaving it sparkling. The people call this yummy orange fruit Tugu and from the planted seeds, sprouts (ocwiji) are dug out, boiled and eaten around August through to October.

The physical features of this land are breathtaking! The natural vegetation, Baker’s Fort known by the locals as Fort Patiko where Sir Samuel Baker set a fort that helped propel the Arabs out of the land. When you visit that place, you can still see the panga marks that the Arabs used to execute locals who were being rebellious in the slave trade time, the ditches around the fort manned by lions then and only one man managed to jump across it to his freedom, something the locals still talk about. And did you know, it is believed that Sir Samuel Baker and colleagues dropped the seeds of the Tugu after eating them? We now know how the tree came about!

The people have never gone in denial of what happened in their land. There are memorial sites within the region that bring to light what this beautiful land went through. The people are determined to catch up with the rest of the world. A jolly town it is! Less than a kilometer from the heart of town, the birds sing away. From any part of this land, you can watch the beautiful sun go to sleep and watch the silver from the sky wash the town as the moon wakes up to take charge of the night. The stars twinkle away.




Photo credit: Walter photography and the internet
Through the eyes of AYENYO Joanita


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